Fits: All Chainsaw makes and bar lengths.
Mills 48″ and longer have the Granberg Mk IV have the bracing kit included for extra strength.
General description: Basic Mill and 48-inch Handle and Rail Set: Tubular Aircraft aluminum extrusion and zinc-plated steel parts. Instruction manual & assembly hardware. High-quality U.S. made aircraft aluminum and steel. MADE IN THE USA.
Use description: This versatile, heavy-duty chainsaw lumber mill accurately cuts planks and beams up to 32” wide and 1/2” to 13” deep. Clamps onto your chainsaw bar with no drilling required. Lightweight and portable, enables user to mill lumber where the tree falls. No previous experience required! New CNC-Machined billet end brackets! (See photo) These new end brackets are more accurate, easier to adjust, create less vibration than the old die cast version and are virtually unbreakable. Perfect for homeowners, woodworkers, arborists and sawyers. Optimal results will be had when used with ripping chain [buy a ripping chain to suit your saw using our selector service click here].
What Size Mill cuts what? You can use shorter bars on longer mills – below is the MAX cut width. You typically lose 6″-8″ off the length of the bar.
- 24″[61cm] Granberg Mk IV - Takes max bar size of 30″[76cm] to give a max cut width of 22″[56cm]
- 36″[91cm] Granberg Mk IV - Takes max bar size of 42″[107cm] to give a max cut width of 34″[86cm]
- 48″ [122cm] Granberg Mk IV – Takes max bar size of 54″[137cm] to give a max cut width of 46″[117cm]
- 60″[152cm] Granberg Mk IV - Takes max bar size of 64″[162cm] to give a max cut width of 56″[142cm]
- 72″[183cm] Granberg Mk IV – Takes max bar size of 74″[188cm] to give a max cut width of 68″[173cm]
- 84″[213cm] Granberg Mk IV – Takes max bar size of 84″[213cm] to give a max cut width of 76″[193cm]
Golden Rules of Chainsaw Milling
Top tips and ways to get the most out of chainsaw milling
- Keep the chain sharp most people require some form of guide to get the chain perfect tooth length the same, angle the same, depth gauges consistent. Nearly all issues we come across always come down to the chain – you can get away with all sorts of mistakes when cross cutting timber – not so with milling. The best tool on the market is still the Granberg Precision Grinder click here – use with our long lasting diamond grinding stones click here.
- Wedge the cut so it does not trap the bar don’t wedge to high but keep the cut open so the saw can cut without the chain getting trapped.
- Get you first cut straight because if you don’t you will have issues all the way through the log! If the top cut is not flat put your first cut rails back on the log and re saw a board so that the log is now flat. Our Panther first cut rails are designed to do just this click here.
- Rest the saw down the log – particularly in hot conditions let the saw idle for 30 seconds every 1m you cut. This allows the saw to get rid of some of the heat build up.
- At the end of the log do not switch saw straight off. Remove from log gently rev and allow chain to remove any sawdust trapped in the bar. Allow saw to idle 1 minute before you start cutting again or before you turn off.
- Do not run your saw out of fuel – always make sure there is fuel in the tank – if you keep allowing the saw to run out of fuel completely you will have idling and other issues later in the saw’s life.
- Do not force the mill to cut it should cut without undue pressure so if it is not cutting then pull it out the log and assess the reasons.
Check out our Alaskan Milling youtube channel here where you can find more info as well as intructional videos on assembly.