If you are looking to getting into chainsaw carving please read this post on arbtalk here.

Chainsaw carving is NOT like standard chainsaw use – ie. you can’t simply strap on a carving bar and do carving – we broke our first carving bar and shortly after broke the chainsaw… please learn by our mistakes! We did not follow the below..

1. Chain is SLACK – no where near as tight as a standard bar, it should be hanging off the underside of the bar
2. R7 bars running 1/4 .043 are SUPER delicate and only used for very fine detail work
3. Carving is mainly done with the saw at half throttle [or thereabouts] – very different from standard work where most cuts are with full throttle
4. Carving bars take longer to bed in – run them gently and ensure they don’t get hot for the first couple of tanks [which means carve for a minute – rest a minute – carve for a minute = rest for a minute… ]
5. Take the heels of the cutter teeth to reduce friction [Stihl 3661-13RMS already has this feature] but click here to see more on this.

You want more info on carving? Then have a look at these pages here… But grab a cuppa and do this when you have time – Carving like chainsaw milling is an art, a skill and you will not simply be able to spend 20 minutes to buy your bits then get cracking [or you can but you will break something at some point..]

If the bar is Sugihara and starts BN6 [for Cannon it is C1] this is a UNIVERSAL mount and will fit most small saws under 40cc.