Chains are not measured by stretching them out on a bench and squinting down a tape measure – chains are identified by PITCH, GUAGE and NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS [no – not the cutting teeth – drive links and you’ll know the difference by even a cursory look at the chain ID link above].
Bars likewise are not measured the same way – manufacturers give them a set ‘length’ which is generally the sticky out bit that comes out of the chainsaw [not including the mount unless in the case of large double ended milling bars which are the exception to the rule and measured end to end].
If that all seems too much like hard work then bear in mind that chainsaws require a lot more attention and care than other power tools. Regard your chainsaw as ‘Excalibur’ with the cutting edge as your chain [please don’t refer to is as a ‘blade’ – it’s a chain. When you look to change it ask for a new ‘chain’ – not a new ‘blade’]. Identifying and being able to use the correct terms will set you apart from others.
Chain sharpening is key – if you cannot use a chain and have it cutting well until the cutters are so small they end up getting knocked off – you have plenty to learn. Watch, research, rinse and repeat. Read our article on chain sharpening by clicking here – often people get caught up in different angles and techniques – but the principles are always the same.
If you are serious about correct maintenance of your bar and chain work your way through the Oregon manual [click here] and after that check out the Stihl equivalent [click here]. Using a chainsaw for 20 years [badly] does not qualify you as an experienced user – so be the change, make the difference and keep educating yourself about these valuable yet dangerous tools.
And finally – why buy a new bar and chain without checking/replacing the drive rim or drive sprocket? [again click here if unsure on what these refer to]. Much as we would enjoy selling you the next bar and chain much earlier than you needed it [a worn sprocket will wear your new chain which will wear your new bar a lot lot faster] – we would rather you got the most out of your purchase.
Oregon multi cut chain gives you a different option for those that want to try a chain that keeps it’s edge longer. However like most things in life there is a compromise. All the range of oregon multi cut are based on their existing chains the only difference there is athicker layer of industrial chrome on the top plate. The chain doesn’t look much different from ‘normal chain’ but it is more expensive.
“Just wanted to say thanks for the multicut chain you sent me for the 346. I don’t like it very much, but my “brash monkey” [I get invoiced for brash monkeying, it’s his term] does. It seems to never get as sharp as a normal chain, not even close to a normal semi-chisel, but…. It does cut at that slower speed for so much longer. I reckon I sharpen the semi-chisel on my 550xp [also on 15″] twice before the multicut starts to slow down considerably. I prefer to take that time, sharpen up and go at it again, but he likes the fact that it will just keep cutting. It’s no different when hitting metal or stones ie. it still knackers the chain multi cut or otherwise.”
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