Welcome to the New Mk IV Granberg Alaskan Ultimate Mill
Features completely redesigned end brackets, better hand grips, tool holder magnet and ratchet spanner. With this mill you can build any mill from 24″(61cm) up to 72″(183cm) – everything you need is included (some sizes will require cutting one set of the handle and rails down).
For longer than 72″(183cm) you will need to buy our 84″(213cm) Granberg Alaskan Mk IV Mill click here. The chainsaw mill in the image is currently set up as a 36″ Alaskan Mill.
This system comes with a set of:
- 4x 36″(91cm) profile rails
- 3x Granberg new style end brackets
- 2x 36″(91cm) stainless handles
- 1x profile joining kit
You can use just the 36″(91cm) handle and rail set or extend the 36″(91cm) to 72″(183cm). Or cut down one set of 36″(91cm) profile rails and 36″(91cm) tube to make any size extension you require. Need a 24″(61m) Alaskan? Cut down the handle and rail set to 24″(61cm). The other 36″(91cm) set is always to hand should you want to extend in the future. This new mill moves away from having different individual rail sizes – you have it all in one system! What size chainsaw do I need? The bigger the better!
You can mill with a longer bar on a smaller saw by switching to a Lo Pro set up. Set ups are varied and you will need to do some homework to see how to get the most out of your saw. Checkout our lo pro milling set ups for more details.
Golden Rules of Chainsaw Milling
Top tips and ways to get the most out of chainsaw milling
- Keep the chain sharp most people require some form of guide to get the chain perfect tooth length the same, angle the same, depth gauges consistent. Nearly all issues we come across always come down to the chain – you can get away with all sorts of mistakes when cross cutting timber – not so with milling. The best tool on the market is still the Granberg Precision Grinder click here – use with our long lasting diamond grinding stones click here.
- Wedge the cut so it does not trap the bar don’t wedge to high but keep the cut open so the saw can cut without the chain getting trapped.
- Get you first cut straight because if you don’t you will have issues all the way through the log! If the top cut is not flat put your first cut rails back on the log and re saw a board so that the log is now flat. Our Panther first cut rails are designed to do just this click here.
- Rest the saw down the log – particularly in hot conditions let the saw idle for 30 seconds every 1m you cut. This allows the saw to get rid of some of the heat build up.
- At the end of the log do not switch saw straight off. Remove from log gently rev and allow chain to remove any sawdust trapped in the bar. Allow saw to idle 1 minute before you start cutting again or before you turn off.
- Do not run your saw out of fuel – always make sure there is fuel in the tank – if you keep allowing the saw to run out of fuel completely you will have idling and other issues later in the saw’s life.
- Do not force the mill to cut it should cut without undue pressure so if it is not cutting then pull it out the log and assess the reasons.