Chains are not measured by stretching them out on a bench and squinting down a tape measure – chains are identified by PITCH, GUAGE and NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS [no – not the cutting teeth – drive links and you’ll know the difference by even a cursory look at the chain ID link above].
Bars likewise are not measured the same way – manufacturers give them a set ‘length’ which is generally the sticky out bit that comes out of the chainsaw [not including the mount unless in the case of large double ended milling bars which are the exception to the rule and measured end to end].
Chain sharpening is key – if you cannot use a chain and have it cutting well until the cutters are so small they end up getting knocked off – you have plenty to learn. Watch, research, rinse and repeat. Read our article on chain sharpening by clicking here – often people get caught up in different angles and techniques – but the principles are always the same.
If you are serious about correct maintenance of your bar and chain work your way through the Oregon manual [click here] and after that check out the Stihl equivalent [click here]. Using a chainsaw for 20 years [badly] does not qualify you as an experienced user – so be the change, make the difference and keep educating yourself about these valuable yet dangerous tools.
Great chains at a reasonable price. Delivered very quickly. What’s not to like .
Fitted to my MS261 used for coppice work so gets a beating lots of nasty dirt and stuff when cutting that close t9 he ground in thin multi stem hazel. Also used for processing wood for bowl blanks seems to rip ok as well .
Genuine Stihl chain
I use this on my ground saw because I believe it cuts virtually as quick as the RS full chisel but I hit nails, washing lines, stones, etc inside garden trees and it is very much quicker to sharpen.