We have an essential info section looking at how to ID chains – why not take a look by clicking here.
Chains are not measured by stretching them out on a bench and squinting down a tape measure – chains are identified by PITCH, GUAGE and NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS [no – not the cutting teeth – drive links and you’ll know the difference by even a cursory look at the chain ID link above].
Bars likewise are not measured the same way – manufacturers give them a set ‘length’ which is generally the sticky out bit that comes out of the chainsaw [not including the mount unless in the case of large double ended milling bars which are the exception to the rule and measured end to end].
If that all seems too much like hard work then bear in mind that chainsaws require a lot more attention and care than other power tools. Regard your chainsaw as ‘Excalibur’ with the cutting edge as your chain [please don’t refer to is as a ‘blade’ – it’s a chain. When you look to change it ask for a new ‘chain’ – not a new ‘blade’]. Identifying and being able to use the correct terms will set you apart from others.
Chain sharpening is key – if you cannot use a chain and have it cutting well until the cutters are so small they end up getting knocked off – you have plenty to learn. Watch, research, rinse and repeat. Read our article on chain sharpening by clicking here – often people get caught up in different angles and techniques – but the principles are always the same.
If you are serious about correct maintenance of your bar and chain work your way through the Oregon manual [click here] and after that check out the Stihl equivalent [click here]. Using a chainsaw for 20 years [badly] does not qualify you as an experienced user – so be the change, make the difference and keep educating yourself about these valuable yet dangerous tools.
And finally – why buy a new bar and chain without checking/replacing the drive rim or drive sprocket? [again click here if unsure on what these refer to]. Much as we would enjoy selling you the next bar and chain much earlier than you needed it [a worn sprocket will wear your new chain which will wear your new bar a lot lot faster] – we would rather you got the most out of your purchase.
22BPX Oregon Micro Chisel .325 .063
Chain seems good quality and holds its edge well. Even on dirty old fire wood and coppice work.
Super sharp chain (obviously) and easy to file sharp after a day's use. These chains are not too aggressive, either, which means they are great for bore cuts when you haven't got too much room for the hinge in smaller trees.
G-3/8-063 Granberg Ripping 3/8 .063Part Number G-3/8-0632 reviewsStock 3385
3668-46RM Stihl Micro Chisel .404 .063Part Number 3668-46RMStock 2656
73RD Oregon Ripping 3/8 .058Part Number 73RD6 reviewsStock 6195
M75LPX Oregon Chisel Multicut 3/8 .063Part Number M75LPX2 reviewsStock 965